Tails of the Kalahari

Botswana, where I lived and worked for two years, is cattle country. The salty scrub brush of the Kalahari Desert is perfect for grazing cattle and has given rise to a culture which is dependent on cattle not only for food but also as a measure of a person's wealth.

I was once sitting at a bar in Gaborone, the capital, chatting with a local gentlemen sitting next to me who had recently retired from government service. He was now spending most of his time out at his home village looking after his herd of cattle.

"Oh,"  I said to him, "you raise cattle. How many head do you have?"

He looked at me with a curious mixture of pity and amusement in his eyes and said, “How would you feel if I asked you how much money you have in the bank?”

That was my introduction to cultural economics in Botswana.

In any event, when it came to food, beef cattle was king and, strangely enough, the most sought after part of the animal was the tail. After all, a cow has four legs but only one tail.

There, the most popular way to cook an oxtail was to use the potjie (pronounced poy-kee), a three legged black cast iron pot set on the ground with a charcoal fire underneath. The tails would cook while we all stood around the fire drinking beer (some of which always found its way into the pot) and snacking on biltong (spiced dried meat). Sometimes toward the end of the long cooking process (3 to 4 hours) we would throw in some beans to cook along with the oxtails. The result was a rich, moist flavorful stew. The final product would be eaten with copious amounts of something call mealie meal or pap which is a corn mush not unlike American grits. I confess it was all absolutely delicious.

At Milford's Corner on Friday, 18 December (after 6pm) we will be recreating Botswana style oxtails for our weekly special. Unfortunately, it will not be accompanied by pap, but will instead be served with mashed potatoes. It will, however, be cooked in the potjie and will definitely capture the spirit of the Kalahari.

Osso Buco

The Special for Friday, the 13th of November from 6 pm will be Osso Buco. For a lot of reasons, this dish is very appropriate for Milford's Corner because getting it to the table has been, and promises yet to be, an adventure. Not because it is hard to cook, but because finding the right cut in Nongkhai is virtually impossible.

The key ingredient in osso buco is veal shanks crosscut into rounds with the bone (and marrow) in the middle. Now I happen to have some veal shanks (acquiring them was an adventure in itself), but they were whole shanks, not cut. So I had to figure a way to cut them up, which I finally did but not without a lot of cursing and swearing and not as pretty as the pictures one sees online. But I did it. Another adventure.

Tomorrow will be the final episode, cooking. But for the true foodie, the ultimate adventure will be experienced by dropping into Milford's Corner tomorrow and tasting a great culinary treat from Milano.

I will try to post photos tomorrow morning.

Buon Appitito!

Cajun Catfish

The special for today,  Friday 6 November, was planned to be Mekong River catfish steaks fixed Cajun style with red beans and rice. Unfortunately, I have yet to find the right fish. I will try again this afternoon. Hopefully by 6 p.m. we will have some Cajun fish steaks.

Simple and Elegant

It has been a busy week in and around Milford's Corner. What with birthday and send off parties, and a visit to the doctor in Udon, there has been a little time to focus on this week's special. So I have decided to depart from my usual routine of preparing days in advance and do a rather quick, simple but elegant dish called meatloaf.

Now it is only recently that I discovered that meatloaf, which is a very good example of a cocina povera type dish in America, is relatively unknown in places like the UK. I find that quite surprising since, in its simplest form, meatloaf is great for making use of leftovers; and everybody makes use of leftovers for something or another. I remember the best thing about my mother's meatloaf was the cold meatloaf sandwiches that I would take to school the next day. Leftovers from leftovers; nothing is wasted.

At Milford's Corner, our meatloaf is made with a mixture of freshly ground beef and pork, combined with vegetables, spices and other ingredients. It is then baked in the oven until bubbly brown on top. Friday's special will be served with mashed potatoes and gravy. 150B.

So come on out tomorrow and enjoy the classic elegance and simplicity of a meatloaf.

Chicken Livers Peri Peri

For two years, I had the pleasure of living in Botswana, a wonderful little country situated on the northern border of South Africa. Because of its geographical location, the economy, culture and food of Botswana is dominated by its large neighbor to the South. It was here, for example, that I discovered rugby and cricket; and it was here that I discovered Nando's.

Nando's is a fast food restaurant which is based in South Africa but which has branches throughout the southern Africa region. I have just discovered that the roots of Nando's derive from Mozambique and before that, Portugal. Although the menu at Nandos is extensive, perhaps their most famous and best selling item is chicken livers Peri Peri.

Peri peri is a regional term for a spicy chili sauce and the original Nando's version lives up to its name: combined in a tomato based chili sauce served over toasted bread. At Milford's Corner, the Friday special will be our version of this excellent example of la cocina povera, although it will not be as spicy as the original. 120B.

La Cocina Povera (The Poor Kitchen)

I spent the first four years of my life with my grandmother on her farm in North Carolina in the south of the US. My mother and father -- as so often happens right here in Thailand -- were in the big city, New York in my case, trying to make their fortune. When I became of school age, I was wrested from my idyllic life in the country and thrust into the sophistication of the big city. But there are some things which are instilled from birth and that become such a part of you that it becomes your fundamental belief system. So it is with la cocina povera.

My grandmother and after her my mother, believed that one must make use of every scrap of produce raised on the farm or purchased at the market. Nothing, and I mean nothing was wasted. Today, we use fancy and fashionable terms terms like the title of this blog to describe what was to my folks a simple matter of survival. Starvation, whilst not imminent, was something always looming and standing measures had to be adopted to keep it at bay. Once again, I see much of that same philosophy reflected in Thailand, particularly here in Isan.

Not surprisingly, at Milford's Corner, the principles of la cocina povera irresistibly come into play. This Friday's Special, for example, is Chicken Livers Peri Peri, a dish up from Portugal by way of southern Africa, and in itself the subject of another blog post. Stay tuned.

Oktobeerfest 2015

 Ok, so in theory we are a bit late; but not as late as it would seem. Although Oktoberfest 2015 is over in Bavaria, at Milford’s Corner we try to hold true to tradition.  The original Oktoberfest began with the festivities surrounding the marriage of Crown Prince Ludwig to Princess Therese of Saxe-Hilburghausen which took place on 12 October 1810 and ran for several days thereafter.  Nowadays in Bavaria, the festival begins in mid-September and ends variably somewhere in the first few days of October. So our Oktoberfest on 16 October is actually within the range of the original celebration back in 1810.

In any event, this Friday we will be serving our version of Schweinshaxe or roasted pork hocks with sauerkraut and sautéed potatoes. 160B.

So come on out and join us in wishing Prince Ludwig and Princess Therese a Happy 205^th Wedding Anniversary.

Oh, by the way, just to let some of my more critical readers (you know who you are) know, the title mispelling is deliberate!

Our International Menu

The international menu at Milford’s Corner is a little different than one finds elsewhere around town. I cannot exactly say why except to say that it may have something to do with the fact that I am a foodie.

 I like food!! Not simply in the sense of consumption, although that is a quintessential part of it, but in the sense of loving the nature of food, almost in the sense of a Platonic inquiry.  Adding to that predilection, I have also traveled around the world a fair bit and tend to focus on food as a window to the culture of where I happen to be at any particular point in time. Putting these inclinations together, one winds up with a person who uses food to actually express ideas as would a writer or artist or musician.

At this point, it is important to say that the international menu is only a portion of the offerings available at Milford’s Corner. Indeed, the bulk of the menu is Thai – and very good Thai food at that. Unfortunately, we have not yet translated the Thai menu but, fear not, all will be revealed in the fullness of time.

As for the international menu, it is heavily weighted toward Mediterranean/Middle Eastern food with a smattering of north European, American and Latino influences. Menu concepts have also been influenced by what I call “la cocina povera”. More on that concept in another blog post.

In building the menu and selecting dishes for inclusion I have tried to use, to the maximum extent possible, local ingredients which tend to be both fresh and less expensive than imported goods. This makes it possible to offer first quality dishes at a reasonable price.

All in all, while not extensive, our international menu offers a wide variety of tastes and culinary experiences. When combined with our Friday specials, barbeque Saturdays and the fact that we are still evolving, Milford’s Corner is truly an adventure in food and a must stop on anyone’s itinerary in Nongkhai.

You can find the new menu here.

Moussaka

Many years ago I found myself in Athens travelling with some friends. We ate at a restaurant at the top of a place called Lycabettus Hill with the most spectacular view of the city and some of the best food I had ever eaten, including a kind of Greek lasagna called moussaka.

Like lasagna, there are about as many versions of moussaka as there are cooks and I firmly believe all of them are delicious. We will give it a go for our Friday special tomorrow, 2 October. Our version is made with layers of potato, aubergine, and a beef and pork mince meat sauce topped with a bechamel sauce and cheese.

The special is served from 6 pm until 9 pm and comes with a green salad, all for only 150B.

Come on over and check it out!

Backyard Saturdays

Ok, so its an American thing. The barbecue is fired up and the ribs they are a'smoking.

Today -- and every Saturday --  is Backyard Saturdays at Milford's Corner. Today, in addition to our regular menu, we offer you barbecued ribs, sausages, pork chops, and more.

For the fixings, we have baked beans, potato salad, and sauerkraut.

So come on by, pop a beer and enjoy our Backyard Saturday menu.

Happy to Serve You

Many people who drop in to the shop ask who the young couple is who serves our customers. I thought it would be nice to introduce them: Guy, Dtouk's youngest son, and Yuy (pronounced you-ee) his girlfriend. They don't have much experience and are eager to learn so we try to encourage them as much as possible. Say hello next time you are in.

This Friday the 25th we will have two specials; a very nice veal stew braised in white wine served over tagliatelle and italian sausages served in a tomato sauce also over tagliatelle. Both are offered for 150B. Drop by and check it out.

Finally, The Resurrection

Yes, the rumors are true. After many fits and starts, Milford's Corner will open for business on Friday, 18 September 2015 at 1100 hrs. 

It will be a soft opening (no party). Because the decision to open was taken quickly and since I remain incapacitated, the process of setting things up is going slowly. Nevertheless, on Friday we expect to be able to offer a menu based on some of the items from the old New York Bistro. For her part, Dtouk will be offering a full Thai food menu.

Below is a list of international food items we expect to be offering on Friday:

Item	Description	Price
Marinated salmon	Served with toasted rounds and cream cheese spread	130B
Chicken liver pate	Served with toasted rounds	110B
Hummus	The classic Greek dip served with homemade pita	100B
Tatziki	Yogurt and cucumber dip with homemade pita	100B
Garlic Bread	Served warm from the oven	60B
Souvlaki	Kebobs of marinated pork served in homemade pita	110B
Chili con carne	Real Texas style but not too hot	130B
Chicken Bolivar	From South America, served with black beans and rice	130B
Bratwurst	Homemade sausages served with mashed potatoes or fries	150B
Bistro Burger	200g of our own ground beef mix – grilled to your specs	150B
Beef Curry	Northern India style - mild	150B
Spaghetti Alfordo	Our house meat and tomato sauce	130B

Friday night is specials night. This Friday, from 6pm, we are offering a barbecued-smoked roast pork with mashed potatoes, gravy and mixed vegetables for 170B.

Every Saturday we will be having a backyard barbecue with a slightly different menu than we would have on a daily basis. Check the blog for details.

But this is just the beginning and as time goes on we will adjust and fine tune our operation. Meanwhile, come on out on Friday the 18th or any other time that suits your desire.

Milford's Corner will be open from Tuesday to Saturday (closed on Sunday and Monday) from 11 a.m. The kitchen will close daily at 9 p.m.

Hope to see you over at Milford's Corner in the near future. Cheers!